Offed only as a point of reference, a 1956 model 11x24 3 jaw 6' chuck 8'faceplate no other accessories or tooling missing compound and cross slide a couple gears with missing teeth price of scrap. Approximately 200 dollars i was given a compound rest and cross slide the previous owner picked up from the guynhe bought it from, turns out it is from a hardinge 1940 model 7-9' lathe. Approximate value 300-700 dollars:whistle: I just saw another 11x24 on ebay a couple of weeks back advertised as a parts lathe.
Discover (and save!) your own Pins on Pinterest. 1947 Delta Unisaw Serial Number Plate. Discover ideas about Number Plates. The Delta Vintage Project - Part One: Serial Numbers. Number Plates Milwaukee Restoration Numbers License Plates Registration Plates. More information.
Price asking 750.00 my feeling it will be very hit or miss, pay the prime dollars asked by some ebay sellers or do the leg work and find a deal. Well Bebop came by and looked at my Rockwell lathe and Chinese mill, we pulled the carriage and found some wear and he did a quick scraping in the middle to get the wear patterns a little more even on the V and adjusted what constitutes a gib and now 95% if the lateral movement I had is now gone. A quick visual, and he said that I got a fair deal with all of the accessories that came with it. The mill will be my first project but I need and be looking for a new lead screw for the lathe, a V-way wiper and cover and the magnifier for the taper attachment.
It was impressive to watch him scrape, I can only hope to get close to his skill. Tim So if anyone has a line on a new long lead screw, way wiper and cover and the magnifier for a taper attachment, please give me a shout. Well Bebop came by and looked at my Rockwell lathe and Chinese mill, we pulled the carriage and found some wear and he did a quick scraping in the middle to get the wear patterns a little more even on the V and adjusted what constitutes a gib and now 95% if the lateral movement I had is now gone.
A quick visual, and he said that I got a fair deal with all of the accessories that came with it. The mill will be my first project but I need and be looking for a new lead screw for the lathe, a V-way wiper and cover and the magnifier for the taper attachment.
It was impressive to watch him scrape, I can only hope to get close to his skill. Tim So if anyone has a line on a new long lead screw, way wiper and cover and the magnifier for a taper attachment, please give me a shout.
Its a Tiawanese 6x26 mill that was given to me from a friend who retired from the plant. It was cast in the late 70's to late 80's, the column is cast into the base unlike the newer mills that bolt together.
I am going to do a full rebuild on it, rescrape the ways and it will need new bearings for the spindle. I may also convert it to a DC motor with a varidrive. Its a small mill but with a DRO it will be a good machine to work on small projects. I will need to take some pics soon and post them.
Was that a Harbor Freight engine crane lift you used to load and move your lathe? I'm in the process of buying a D/R 11X36 and trying to decide how I'm going to get it on and off my trailer and into place in my shop. That lift makes it look like not too bad a job. Incidentally, looks like I'll be moving to the Payson area just south of you next summer. Good to know there's someone else around with a similar lathe. Thanks for posting the shops and services you are using in your restoration efforts.
Was that a Harbor Freight engine crane lift you used to load and move your lathe? I'm in the process of buying a D/R 11X36 and trying to decide how I'm going to get it on and off my trailer and into place in my shop. That lift makes it look like not too bad a job. Incidentally, looks like I'll be moving to the Payson area just south of you next summer. Good to know there's someone else around with a similar lathe.
Thanks for posting the shops and services you are using in your restoration efforts. So I ran the lathe today turning some cast iron, I found that there are some problems that concern me. The spindle got really hot and made some noises, I am not sure if it was the belts or bearings causing the heat. The spindle got so hot with the cover off that it was uncomfortable to the touch. I also had one heck of a squeal when the carriage reached a certain point, either the force to cut the material caused the belts to slip or I have some serious problems in the apron.
I also have the motor wired to 110vac, it felt that the motor was not powerful enough, does the tribe think that converting to 220 would increase the torque ability for the motor? Do I run the motor again and do a thermal image to find what is causing the heat? What belts are supposed to be used? I have dayco x48 belts with the same date code in 2010. I also need to replace the lead screw because of wear and its bent. I am going to take one thing at a time, but I am real frustrated that I may not be able to use the lathe until I get some major items identified or fixed. I only offer this as one mans opinion, please regard as you feel best suits your situation.
) 220 is always my preference for larger equipment, they run smoother, and more efficiently. When given a chooce that is. As for the heat situation, it may not be the case for you, but it might be worth a look, the reeves drive setup is not the best situation, the belts can be to tight in one range and too loose on the other, resulting in overheating or lose of power.
Do a search here, there have been a couple of members who have eliminated the drive system for other methods. Worth the search and read anyway. Also, i have a link somewhere on gaines belts, they pointed to an article about matched belts, i think its in my phone, unfortunately its down for a couple more days.
Hope there is something in here you find useful. I have been reading through the manual and came across the part about adjusting the bearings. With regard to your heat problem, I would bet that's your problem.
It's a simple thing to fix, so I'd take a minute to read that part and do the adjustment. You simply loosen a set screw, rotate the locking ring, give the head a good rap with a mallot to loosen the bearings, then readjust them properly, then lock the screw back down. They should be adjusted so that when you spin the chuck by hand, you feel a slight drag. Too tight creates the heat.
You can download the manuals from the Yahoo group 'RockwellLathe' under their 'files' section. By the way, just this morning I won the bidding on a D/R 11X36, model 25-100.
I'll pick it up next week. It looks exactly like yours on the trailer, including the missing tailstock (I've already located one).
I'll be following all your posts, so keep them coming!